There’s a head of radicchio in many of the bags this week. A form of chicory, it is bracingly bitter.
This goes against the general trend in our veg and fruit, which are gradually being bred into less bitter varieties to suit modern palettes. This is generally a good thing I think. There’s a reason why sprouts are much more popular now than they were when I was young. Modern varieties are more mellow and less bitter.
But it’s also good to embrace the bitterness sometimes. The ‘phytochemicals’ that provide those bitter flavours have all kinds of interesting health benefits, from fighting cancer to improving the cardiovascular system. They are natural toxins that evolved to deter fungal and insect pests. Their health giving properties are thought to derive from their very toxicity. When we eat them, the mild stress stimulates the body’s repair mechanisms, which overcompensate and make us more healthy than when we started. This super cool healing mechanism is known as ‘hormesis’, and is also why cold water swimming is so good for the health.
If you’re finding the radicchio a bit too bitter, try sauteeing it and pairing it with sweet vinegar to mellow the flavour.
Tom Steele
What’s in the bag this week?
Small bag:
Carolus potatoes – Nash Nursery, Kent
Beetroot – Sarah Green’s, Essex
Chestnut mushrooms – Capel Mushrooms, Suffolk
Radicchio – Sarah Green’s, Essex
Small fruit supplement:
Conference pears – Mole End Farms, Kent
Standard bag:
Red onions – Bagthorpe Farm, Norfolk
Carrots – Newfields Organics, Yorkshire
Spinach – Ripple Farm, Kent
Romanesco cauliflower – Newfields Organics, Yorkshire
Savoy cabbage – Newfields Organics, Yorkshire
Family bag:
Carolus potatoes – Nash Nursery, Kent
Beetroot – Sarah Green’s, Essex
Turnips – Sarah Green’s, Essex
Chestnut mushrooms – Capel Mushrooms, Suffolk
Radicchio – Sarah Green’s, Essex
Parsley – Forty Hall, London
Large fruit supplement:
Conference pears – Mole End Farms, Kent
Cox apples – Oakwood Farm, Sussex
Mega bag:
Red onions – Bagthorpe Farm, Norfolk
Carrots – Newfields Organics, Yorkshire
Spinach – Ripple Farm, Kent
Savoy cabbage – Newfields Organics, Yorkshire
Parsley – Forty Hall, London
Purple sprouting broccoli – Langridge Organics, Devon
Turnips – Sarah Green’s, Essex
Wash all veg and fruit before eating. Store carrots, beetroot, spinach, broccoli, mushrooms, cabbage, cauliflower, turnips, parsley and radicchio in the fridge. Protect potatoes from light to avoid sprouting.
Recipe: romanesco with rosemary, garlic, lemon and pecorino
A Nigella Lawson recipe.
1 head romanesco 60ml olive oil
1 tbsp finely chopped rosemary needles 1 clove garlic, finely chopped
zest and juice of 1 lemon 2–3 tbsp grated pecorino
- Fill a large pan with salted water and put on to boil.
- Divide the romanesco into florets and boil for about 8 minutes, till crisp tender.
- Drain the romanesco florets and put in a shallow serving bowl.
- In a small saucepan heat the olive oil, add the chopped rosemary needles and let them sizzle for a few seconds.
- Add the garlic, stir it in, and turn off the heat.
- Add the lemon zest to the saucepan, then whisk in the lemon juice.
- Pour this dressing over the romanesco and toss together.
- Sprinkle grated pecorino cheese over the romanesco florets before serving.
Recipe: turnip soup
350g-400g turnip 1 tbsp oil
1 onion, chopped ½ clove garlic, chopped
50ml-100ml dry white wine 500ml good stock
- Peel the turnip and cut into chunks.
- Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the onion and garlic and cook till translucent.
- Add the turnip and cook for 5-10 minutes. Add the wine, cook for a few minutes, then add the stock.
- Simmer until the turnip is soft but not mushy. Remove from heat and purée in a blender.
- Return puréed soup to pan, season with salt and pepper and bring to a simmer to serve.
Recipe: chilli con mushrooms
½ tbsp ground cumin ½ tbsp ground coriander
1 tsp smoked paprika ½ tsp chilli powder
200g mushrooms, sliced 1 clove garlic, chopped
400g tin chopped tomatoes 400g tin kidney beans
2 tbsp soured cream squeeze of lime juice
- Heat 2 tsp oil in a pan over medium high heat and add the spices.
- Cook for 1 minute then add the mushrooms and sautee for 5 minutes.
- Add the chopped garlic and cook for another minute.
- Stir in the chopped tomatoes, half a tin of water and the kidney beans.
- Season with salt and pepper, then simmer for 20 minutes until thickened.
- In a small bowl, mix the soured cream and lime juice.
- Serve the chilli with rice and a drizzle of the soured cream.
Recipe: bruschetta with radicchio
Serves four.
1 tbsp honey 1 radicchio, trimmed and cut into quarters
1½ tbsp olive oil 4 slices sourdough bread
100g brie cheese, or similar 40g parmesan, grated
2 tsp thyme leaves
- Heat the grill to its highest setting.
- Bring a pan of salted water to a boil and blanch the radicchio quarters for 30 seconds.
- Drain and refresh under cold water, then pat dry.
- Toss the radicchio gently with the olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
- Put the radicchio quarters on a baking tray and lay the sourdough bread slices alongside.
- Grill them all for two minutes, until the bread and radicchio are golden-brown.
- Put a radicchio quarter on each slice of toast, and top with the cheese and thyme leaves.
- Grill them again for three minutes, until the cheese has melted and is starting to colour.
- Drizzle over the honey and serve at once.
